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The temples of ANGKOR, which cover an area the size of Manhattan, have been extensively renovated since being 'rediscovered' in the 1860s by French colonists. The enigmatic heads of the Bayon took 21 years to build and are the crowning glory of Angkor Thom. Not surprisingly, awareness of this amazing series of Buddhist and Hindu monuments has grown rapidly in recent years and has been the subject of many people's 'must see' lists).
Environmentally, too, the country has always been ahead of its time. The area around the Angkor temples was declared Southeast Asia's first national park in 1925. The country now boasts no fewer than seven national parks and nine animal sanctuaries, with a total area of 19% of the country protected as a fragile or critical habitat.
The Tonle Sap lake region, not far from Angkor, is one of the most unusual and diverse ecosystems in the world. During the rainy season the pressure of the Mekong forces the Tonle Sap river to flow in the opposite direction and flood the lake, effectively quadrupling its size. At certain times of year this unique area, designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1997, attracts rare fishing birds including ibis, pelicans and storks.
The boat ride between Siem Reap and BATTAMBANG is one of the highlights of any trip. The journey of about four hours (depending upon season) in a private boat, passes small fishing villages where people still spontaneously wave you a greeting. It's possible to combine this trip with a visit to the bird sanctuary, and have lunch in a floating community.
Battambang itself is officially Cambodia's second largest city and yet is essentially a sleepy provincial town. Much of its livelihood is centred around the sweeping river that runs through its midst, and it still retains many (somewhat dilapidated) examples of French colonial architecture. View the stunning surrounding countryside as passenger on a small motorcycle, stop off at local places of interest and venture into villages well off the beaten track, rarely visited by foreigners.
The CARDAMOM AND ELEPHANT MOUNTAINS, stretching along the west coast, is one of the last forest wilderness areas in mainland Southeast Asia. Conservationists have found the forest ecosystem to be virtually intact, with animals and plants potentially new to science. The area has high densities of globally threatened species such as tiger, gaur, pileated gibbon and the critically endangered Siamese crocodile. A visit to this area is not for everyone - there is no tourist infrastructure at all, so expect to be staying in a local house or pagoda, washing at the village pump and cooking your own food!
On the endangered list, the Irrawaddy freshwater dolphin can be found near the small town of KRATIE, 93 miles north of Phnom Penh. It's estimated there may be only a hundred left, but since the opening of an education centre and viewing park in the area, local awareness has risen of the need to protect this docile and friendly mammal.
Very much the country's 'wild east', RATTANAKIRI borders both Laos and Vietnam and is home to many indigenous hill tribes whose way of life (and language in many cases) is completely different from elsewhere in Cambodia. Here, well away from the tourist trails, is a place largely unchanged for centuries - full of spectacular waterfalls, small rural villages and unspoiled rainforest where tigers and elephants can still be found. Volcanic rock formations mix with primary rain forest; minority villages with ancient customs and clear blue/green lakes with gemstone mines.
The peoples of remote MONDULKIRI province have managed to preserve their way of life for centuries, due in part to their distance from just about everywhere else. Even with the recently much-improved road, it is still a full day's travelling by 4WD vehicle from Phnom Penh. For those with time to spare, the journey is worth it - the rolling hills, cooler climate and peaceful atmosphere make it an ideal location for short walking trips. This is not a place for anyone liking their creature comforts - electricity is often elusive but a hot noodle soup from one of the market stalls, with sugar, lime and chilli, is a great pick-me-up breakfast.
The vibrant and noisy capital PHNOM PENH is home to the grandeur of the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda, festooned with over 5,000 solid silver floor tiles. The National Museum with its treasure of ancient art is contrasted with the horror of Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields, providing the opportunity to learn about Cambodia's recent history. High-tech mixed with tradition, opulence mixed with poverty, the city is a fascinating blend of old-world French colonial charm, intriguing back streets with their hidden gems and a multitude of pavement businesses. International influences have left PP relatively untouched, helping it retain its unique appeal and character.
At the end of a journey exploring the country, the beach resort of SIHANOUKVILLE is a pleasant place to unwind for a few days. White sandy beaches, warm water and a comparative lack of development combine to make a relaxed getaway location.
The peaceful riverside town of KAMPOT is a charming place, with some lovely old French architecture and is surrounded by some of Cambodia's most stunning scenery. The countryside here is fairly hilly, providing many opportunities to explore - most notably the old Hill Station in the Bokor National park nearby. A bumpy journey takes you through lush forest to scrubby gorseland as you gain altitude, finally arriving at the site of the former French-built station. Founded in 1922, it was abandoned first in the 1940s and again in the 1970s. An old hotel and church are among the eerie derelict buildings (even more eerie with the swirling mist that so often seems to be up there).
Close by, the once-fashionable seaside resort of KEP-SUR-MER has a ghost-town feel. Abandoned during the time of the Khmer Rouge, its once luxurious villas along the palm-fringed beach are now derelict. This is a popular weekend spot for local people, with many street-side vendors selling grilled squid and freshly squeezed sugar cane juice with a dash of orange - delicious!
One of the most unspoiled countries in Southeast Asia, Cambodia is a fascinating mix of breathtaking scenery, cultures and traditions, nature and wildlife, ancient temples, order, chaos and genuine friendliness.
Recent history of the Khmer Rouge dominates many people's vision of Cambodia, but the country has a much richer history and many varied and interesting destinations to offer.
The Khmer Empire was once the centre of Indochina, covering much of Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. The stone architecture of the time - between the 9th and 13th centuries - still enthralls and mystifies experts today.
Today's Cambodia has moved with the times while retaining its character and has so far avoided globalisation; there are no McDonald's and very few western brands of any kind. In spite of the trauma they have endured within living history, the people - still a predominantly rural population - always offer a warm smile, genuine friendship and hospitality.
Have your senses stimulated by Cambodia with its tropical climate, delicious cuisine and traditional culture, while the people leave an indelible mark on your heart.
